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Post by motocan on Jan 23, 2011 17:28:06 GMT 1
Hi Guys
Well it looks like my 3 year old G25 is broken. First at last weekends race my brake pedal was working like an off/on button. That was an easily fixed with some contact spry in the brake pot.
Then while practicing this week when I turned the wheel pass 90 degrees the wheels stay turned and the centre is way off. If I turn hard and fast in the other direction it changes but just stays at that angle.
I have done all the fiddly bits, reboots and reloaded drivers etc. but without effect
Looked on the net and others have the same problem but saw no solutions.
Does anyone now of a fix or shall I go shopping?
Have a good race.
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Post by xtian on Jan 23, 2011 18:07:55 GMT 1
does it do it in the game only or also in the windows control panel ?
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Post by motocan on Jan 23, 2011 18:55:17 GMT 1
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Post by xtian on Jan 23, 2011 20:00:59 GMT 1
sorry if this is irrelevant, I d not even own a G25 but I had something vaguely similar with my cheap crapmaster wheel. it was some conflict. On my wheel you can calibrate it by centering it then push a series of buttons simultaneously to indicated that this must be considered the center, OR calibrate it using the software calibration tool. (same thing to define the 3 4 or 5 axis both by software OR key code) and the wheel got lost somewhere between the two different informations. Or so it seems. maybe it was a gremlin.
Can a G25 center be defined by the same sort of process, using a key code or buttons ?
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Post by motocan on Jan 24, 2011 15:25:12 GMT 1
You have got me thinking xtian. As I mentioned the brake pot had acted up and my first reaction was to reload the drivers which I did with no result and then realized it was the pot. When using the Windows XP setup I uncheck the combine both axis box. I can’t remember if it was checked before. I setup the wheel in the LFS options and it worked for 3 days before this problem started. Last night I got carried away and started to take the wheel apart. I was about to continue when I read your post. I think I will continue and see if I can see what Gargravarr suggests in his post. I took the whole kit apart but will check out the possibility of a conflict when I reassemble it all again.
Thanks for the thoughts I will keep posting an update.
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Post by motocan on Jan 24, 2011 21:18:02 GMT 1
So, I have my G25 all apart and found the encoder which is under a black cover on the left motor as described on the other form by Gargravarr. The right motor just shows a shaft extending from it The encoder cover is only open at the end against the motor which makes it hard to see into.
I think……, I will think about this before going bravely where fools lead. The motors have a 10mm shaft extending from the end of the motor casing and the sensor must be mounted near it. The black cover is loose and moves about but has a limit. There is a plug going into the back of the cover. The guy says it is delicate and it sure looks that way so I will take my time.
I need an opti-wand to see under the edge of the cover. Where are the swat squads when you need one? Maybe I can find a pair of those old x-ray glass they used to sell in the back of Popular Mechanics magazine, maybe pedal to the metal and go for it. lol
Actually I am hoping to gather a bit more information before I try more. I am used to going slowly about these things. Bit stumped at the moment.
If I am successful I will update.
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Post by motocan on Jan 26, 2011 22:23:55 GMT 1
Hot d**n it worked! Excuse my French!
If you happen to own a Logitech G25 you may at some time have this problem. Here is how I fixed the misalignment.
After an exhaustive research period and a, “Oh! that’s what that is” realization, I made a small modification to stabilize the sensor and was rewarded with success.
I never opened the sensor because you don’t have to, but I read up on them on the net. The optical sensor is the black plastic box located on the back end of the left drive motor ( looking from the wheel position). On my wheel the bottom of the sensor was about .06 inches (2 mm) from the motor frame. This gap and the subsequent movement of the sensor allows it to get jammed. I think the sensor is like a self aligning bearing. This gives it a type of gimble seat to move around the axis when under torque.
This in mind I shimmed all 4 corners to make it relatively parallel to the end of the motor and the applied some silicone glue in 4 places. This stabilized the sensor but also allows it to move as the silicone will flex nicely and return.
There is a lot of info on line on how to get the wheel apart which is easy to do. Extra car removing the steering wheel as the wires that attach it to the little board can be torn off with out much effort.
Well that’s that see you all on the track.
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Post by xtian on Jan 26, 2011 23:02:57 GMT 1
wow great, thank you for this explanation that I didn't understand a single word of glad it's working, thanks for helping any other facing this inconvenient.
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Post by motocan on Jan 27, 2011 2:31:35 GMT 1
I hope this will help anyone who encounters this problem. I saw a lot of discussion about it and some guys said they found a fix but none of them gave an explanation of their fix.
Just in case I spread confusion, the shims must be removed after the glue is dry. Cheers
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